New Oyster Trail Aims To Boost Connecticut’s Tourism Offerings

Connecticut’s culinary scene is noted for New Haven pizza, hot lobster rolls and steamed cheeseburgers. Now it’s recognizing another local food find — oysters.

Last month, Connecticut Governor Ned Lamont unveiled a new Connecticut Oyster Trail that maps out over a dozen of the state’s oyster farms. The self-guided trail also lists businesses that sell Connecticut-sourced oysters and restaurants that incorporate them into their menus.

You can download the trail map here.

The governor is also credited with planting the beds for this trail. Connecticut’s Chief Marketing Officer Anthony Anthony recalled Lamont making a bold statement during a July 2021 press conference on the passing of new legislation aimed to better support the state’s aquaculture industry.

“That was the first time I heard him say, ‘Connecticut is the Napa Valley of oysters,’ “ remembered Anthony.

The State Of The Industry

At first, Anthony thought the comparison sounded fishy. But then, upon trying Connecticut oysters, he changed his mind.

“As I sampled more Connecticut oysters, I began to really see the connection— bucolic scenery, farmers passionate dedication and artistry, the concept of merrior (the marine equivalent to wine’s terroir), and the delightful experience they create together all made me realize that Governor Lamont wasn’t that far off in his analogy,” Anthony said.

In early 2023, Anthony was given the task of rebranding Connecticut by highlighting what makes the state unique. Public surveys revealed that many people outside of the Connecticut had little to no perception of the state.

“These insights guided us to focus on creating a stronger, more distinct identity for Connecticut, which we successfully accomplished,” explained Anthony. “We cultivate some of the best damn oysters in the country, so why not proudly proclaim it?”

Oysters Aplenty

Connecticut’s history with oyster farming dates back to the 19^th century; Norwalk was once known as the “Oyster Capital of the World.” In 1911 alone, Connecticut peaked in harvesting 25 million pounds of oyster meat.

Today, oyster harvesting in Connecticut is at more than 20 million oysters annually, across 70,000 acres of aquaculture farms. Recently, the Lamont administration passed state regulations, relating to oyster size limits and storage and handling requirements, to further strengthen this industry.

Oysters are front and center at annual festivals held in Milford and Norwalk. Copps Island Oysters, the state’s oldest oyster farming operation, has an oyster museum at their headquarters in Norwalk.

The debut of the Connecticut Oyster Trail also coincides with a new short-form documentary called “Rising Tide to Table.” It chronicles Stonington Farms Shellfish, a family-run oyster farm in Mystic.

The documentary also stars Emily Mingrone, owner and chef at three New Haven restaurants, Tavern on State, Fair Haven Oyster Co. and The Pearl, and the butcher shop, Provisions on State.

Mingrone had met Anthony at a press conference on rebranding Connecticut as a “State for Makers” and he later reached out to her about getting involved in the trail’s marketing plans.

“My hands down favorite [oyster farm] is Stonington Farms, which is why I wanted them to be in the documentary alongside me,” said Mingrone.

Mingrone began preparing oysters through her stint at ZINC Restaurant in New Haven. “We had a dollar oyster night once a week, so I definitely got my practice in,” she said.

Mingrone went on to work at other restaurants that were heavily focused on local sourcing, and, along with her own, had menus incorporating a fair amount of seafood.

Fair Haven Oyster Co., which is listed on the trail, changed that. This restaurant is based within a marina on Connecticut’s Quinnipiac River, in an area that was once a major oyster harbor.

“I knew New Haven was missing a small, chef-driven neighborhood seafood joint that was thoughtful about the ingredients,” said Mingrone. “We have a robust and rotating raw bar selection which is important to me because I want our guests to be able to try different varieties each time they come in.”

According to Mingrone, Connecticut oysters are defined typically as common Eastern oysters, but also known as Atlantic oysters or East Coast oysters, with the scientific name of Crassostrea virginica.

However, Connecticut oysters can differ based on factors such as an oyster farm’s growing methods and the merrior (aka, habitat) that oysters are raised in.

Collectively, these oysters are often referred to by a generic term known as Blue Point Oysters. The name comes from a Long Island destination.

Rachel Precious, founder and owner of Precious Oysters, a raw bar catering company in Westport, said that there’s a movement to push away the name and instead referring to Connecticut oysters by their place of origin.

“Every farmer has their own way of growing their oysters, and so by calling everything a Blue Point, it doesn't really give the farmers the recognition they've served for the time and energy effort they put into growing their oysters,” Precious explained.

As a chef and restaurateur, Mingrone said that Connecticut oysters contribute immensely to the state dining scene “because they are accessible and delicious, and there is truly nothing better than getting to know your farmers by name.”

For more information on the Connecticut Oyster Trail, visit this website.