Head To Campania For Italy’s Most Distinctive White Wines

The best-known Italian wines may indeed be red - Brunello di Montalcino, Barolo, Barbaresco and Amarone immediately come to mind - but the country’s white wines are no less special. While some who read these words may think that Italian whites are simple and less than remarkable, thanks in large part to the volumes of Pinot Grigio being produced in various territories, the white wine industry in Italy has blossomed over the past 20 years, with the best examples offering remarkable aromatics and significant complexity along with excellent aging potential.

There are at least three regions where white wines as a whole are generally more famous, and dare I say better than the area’s reds. The three regions are Trentino-Alto Adige and Friuli in the north and Campania in the south. One can argue over which of these regions are home to Italy’s finest whites - spectacular wines are made in all three - but without doubt, Italy’s most distinctive white wines are produced in Campania.

The reasons for that are simple, as Campania is the spiritual home for several of the finest indigenous white varietals in all of Italy. The two most famous are Greco and Fiano, while Falanghina, planted throughout the region, has become a notable sales success. Then you have small pockets of little-known grapes such as Biancolella, Ginestra and Palagrello Bianco, among others, that are planted in specific areas; the former two are found along the coast of the Tyrhennian Sea, while Palagrello Bianco is home in the inland province of Caserta.

Let’s look at the major white wines of Campania to discover what makes them so unique:

Fiano - While Fiano is planted in Sicily and Puglia, its most famous rendition is made in Campania, namely Fiano di Avellino. The wine takes its name from the province of Avellino - known as Irpinia in the local wine industry. Fiano di Avellino is one of the longest aging white wines made anywhere in the world, with examples from the finest vintages drinking beautifully for up to 20-25 years, and even longer in certain instances. Typical perfumes with Fiano include lemon zest, orange peel and yellow and orange flowers, and the best examples have significant richness on the palate.

There are also excellent examples of Fiano produced in other territories of Campania, including the Salerno Peninsula (south of the Amalfi Coast) and in the Paestum/ Cilento areas in far southern Campania. Recommended producers of Fiano di Avellino include Donnachiara, Villa Raiano, Feudi di San Gregorio, Mastroberardino, Villa Diamante, Tenuta Sarno, Pietracupa (identified not as Fiano di Avellino, but as Campania Fiano), I Favati, Tenuta Scuotto, Laura de Vito and Colli di Lapio.

For the finest examples of Fiano outside of Avellino, look for these producers: Tempa di Zoè, Luigi Maffini and San Salvatore 1988 (also look for the Lapazio white wine from Francesca Fiasco, a Paestum Bianco that is a blend of Fiano, Falanghina and Coda di Volpe).

Greco - Greco like Fiano ages extremely well; growers, producers and critics argue over which wines age longer, but both wine types are often in beautiful shape at 15-20 years of age. The most celebrated version of Greco is Greco di Tufo, produced in a zone of eight communes in the province of Avellino. Characteristic aromas include melon and lemon oil as well as notes of golden poppy or elderflowers; there are also intriguing notes of Mediterranean herbs such as sage, fennel or mint. Compared to Fiano di Avellino, Greco di Tufo tends to display more minerality and sapidity; it also tends to be more expressive on the palate than in its perfumes. Recommended producers of Greco di Tufo include: Petilia, Benito Ferrara (Vigna Cicogna and Terra d’Uva), Feudi di San Gregorio (Cutizzi), Cantine di Marzo, Colli di Lapio (Alexandros), Villa Raiano (Ponte dei Santi), Pietracupa (labeled as Campania Greco), Fonzone, Donnachiara, Terredora di Paolo and Tenuta Cavalier Pepe.

Falanghina - While Falanghina is planted in all five province of Campania, it is most famous in Benevento in the north, Campi Flegrei along the coast, west and south of Napoli, and in the northwestern province of Caserta, where the best examples are known as Falerno del Massimo. Falanghina is best-known for its naturally high acidity, as well as its aromas of green and red apple, pear, melon and yellow flowers. For many years, Falanghina was not well respected, but research and experience among growers and producers have resulted in wines of greater complexity; the finest versions - especially those from Campi Flegrei - offer distinct minerality and aging potential for at least a decade. Best producers of Falanghina include - from Benevento: Fontanavecchia, Mustilli, La Guardiense (Janare Senete) and Cantina di Solopaca (Identitas); from Campi Flegrei: Cantine Astroni, Agnanum, Cantine Carputo and Salvatore Martusciello; from Caserta, look for Villa Matilde, Torelle, Nugnes and Masseria Felicia.

Palagrello Bianco - Palagrello Bianco is found in the province of Caserta, north and east of the province of Avellino. Quite rich on the palate, typical aromas include lemon peel, orange zest and grapefruit, and in warmer years, notes of papaya and golden apples. Some examples, such as the Morrone from Alois are vinified in wood for a few months; these offer beautiful white and yellow spice notes, and display lovely texture. Best producers of Palagrello Bianco include Alois, Vigne Chigi, Cantina di Lisandro and Scaramuzzo.

Biancolella (and other costal varieties): Grapevines grown along the Campania coast must endure stiff breezes from the sea, meaning not all vines are suited to this territory. Thus through trial and error, varietals such as Biancolella and Forestera have been the principal white ones along the coast, and on the islands of Ischia and Capri; Falanghina is another widely planted varietal here, thanks to its high acidity. The wines made from these grapes offer a distinct maritime character, with sea breeze aromas and a saltiness (sapidity) in the finish. Typically made in steel tanks or cement vats, or treated with a minimal amount of oak, these are often consumed within three to five years with local seafood, yet the wines do have staying power and can age for up to a decade.

At the Marisa Cuomo estate in the tiny hamlet of Furore in the Amalfi Coast (the local DOC is Costa d’Amalfi), one of Italy’s most complex, glorious and longest-lived wines, Fiorduva, is produced by blending three local varietals: Ginestra, Fenile and Ripoli; the last two are found only in Furore and some nearby villages. Fermented and matured in oak, this is unlike any Campanian white, given its intensity and power. Examples that are 15 and 20 years old display great freshness; Fiorduva is a testament to the viticulture along the coast (especially at Cuomo) and stands as exemplary proof of the excellence of Campania white wines.

Caprettone - One final indigenous varietal worth noting is Caprettone, grown in Pompeii; Bosco de’ Medici, a first-rate producer crafts different wines using this grape. Medium-full, the wines offer heavenly perfumes of yellow apple, golden poppy and notes of jasmine and lily. These wines are limited in production, but are worth the search, as they offer excellent complexity with beautiful texture and minerality.