Airport and airline food is loved and loathed in equal measure but is undeniably improving
Stereotypes of lackluster in-flight meals and subpar airport food used to be the norm— but things are radically changing for the better, depending on who you fly with and which airport you're passing through.
A recent Washington Post article talked of the terrors of airport food—the lack of choice, the endless queuing for sub-standard products to eat and drink and the sheer factory-produced nature of it all—it highlighted a Wake-Up Wrap from Dunkin’ where the eggs have 12 ingredients.
Some airports though are now well-known for having great food. A 2023 survey found in its analysis of the food offerings at the world's 100 busiest airports that Manchester Airport in the U.K. has an impressive 26 different vegetarian and vegan restaurant options and even better, Switzerland's Zürich Airport has 36 different vegetarian and vegan options. There is a huge spread in the cost between these busiest airports. Vietnam's Tan Son Nhat International Airport had the lowest average food cost in the study—an average dish costs $2.75—while in Japan's Kansai International Airport, the price of a main dish on average was $34.02.
Despite the challenge of preparing food for consumption in the air, compared to eating on the ground, things have vastly improved on airlines too. It can be a challenge to create something that we'll love—The Telegraph reports that we lose up to 30% of our tastebuds when traveling at altitude and the BBC adds that lack of humidity, lower air pressure, and the background noise can also change how the food tastes to us. Also, the strict rules required in these preparing and serving environments mean that it can be difficult to serve high quality sushi or succulent pinkish lamb and still meet regulations. Plus the recycled air and air conditioning dries food out fast.
It's not unusual for travelers to eat everything offered, regardless of quality. It probably has something to do with the fear of being delayed, hungry and stuck on a plane without food, that makes us eat everything. It's not dissimilar to the way that most of us tuck into a breakfast buffet at a hotel, because as The Telegraph describes it, we tend to act as collectors and maximisers when confronted with lots of food, and we tend to take it all, even when we don't want or need it.
The good news though is that plane food is of a higher quality than ever. Gate Gourmet sits near London Heathrow and prepares a staggering amount of food for airlines like Virgin Atlantic, Thai Airways, Delta, Japan Airlines and LATAM—20,000 meals every day. Every month it can produce as many as 210,700 fresh bread rolls, 42,000 yoghurts and places 10,000kg of fresh salad into pre-prepared meals.
The menus have also come a long way too. In December, Korean Air was named best for airline cuisine in Global Traveler's annual reader survey. Think of a delicious bibimbap—rice, ground pork and vegetables that you stir together with hot pepper Gochujang sauce and bean paste. Icelandair's business class (the Saga Premium cabin) has its own Gin Library of spirits distilled in Iceland with Nordic mixers like Arctic thyme, birch, and mountain moss. Somewhat unsurprisingly for the national carrier of a country renowned for its food and drink, Air France has Business and First class menus created by Michelin-starred chefs and reportedly astonishing bottles of Chablis. Japanese All Nippon Airlines (ANA) now offers delicious vegan pasta in coach class and Austrian Airlines does an esteemed vegetarian service in business.
Or, if you are still feeling suspicious of airline and airport food, you could just do what The Washington Post suggests and pack a sandwich to take to the airport instead.
