How These New Dolls Are Addressing Hair Texture Discrimination Head-On

Hair discrimination and texturism are systemic issues that don’t often receive the attention they deserve. Hair discrimination can be thought of as the differential treatment faced by those with curly hair types compared to those with straighter hair textures. Texturism is a specific form of hair discrimination faced by those with the most kinky, curly, and coarse hair textures. Hair discrimination often impacts those with what are considered “Black hairstyles” like afros, cornrows, braids, and dreadlocks and is considered a form of race-based hair discrimination. Although the CROWN Act was implemented to provide protections against race-based hair discrimination, it is still a pervasive issue.

According to Dove, “Hair discrimination against Black natural hair can start as early as five.” Black kids can experience bias and inequities because of the way they choose to wear their hair. In addition, a deleterious effect of this hair bias is the negative impact on one’s self-esteem and self-perception. In the 1940s, researchers Dr. Kenneth and Mamie Clark explored the effects of “prejudice, discrimination, and segregation” on Black children through a series of doll studies. The researchers found that both Black and white children preferred white dolls versus the Black dolls used in the experiment, confirming that Black children at young ages often internalize negative stereotypes about their community.

With an understanding of the role that racism can play on perceptions of self, Anita Grant, founder of Hello Hair, has developed a set of Black styling dolls with different hair textures to combat internalized oppression and bring more visibility to issues of texturism. Grant explained that she wants to empower children and more specifically, young girls, as well as adults to feel more comfortable with their hair. “Hands-on practice is essential for understanding hair, enabling individuals to grasp its texture, density, and unique traits, along with various styling techniques. By educating early on, we dispel the notion that managing and caring for natural hair is challenging. I strongly believe that education and experience are pivotal in fostering change for generations to come,” she explained.

Grant, who is based in Toronto Canada, shared that she hopes the styling dolls she developed will be used in beauty and cosmetology schools everywhere. Beauty and cosmetology schools can play an instrumental role in helping the next generation of hairdressers and hair stylists better understand Black hair. Hair discrimination is not only prevalent in workplaces and schools, but can also be seen within hair salons. The microaggressions experienced in hair salons can come in the form of hair stylists having excessive requirements to service kinkier hair textures or charging higher fees for those with coarser and kinkier hair types.

“When I was in cosmetology school in 1997, I remember there was another student who was from Iran who said she wasn’t interested in doing ‘Black hair.’ She was more interested in doing ‘white people’s hair,’” shared one 61-year-old licensed cosmetologist based in Atlanta who asked to remain anonymous for this article. “I went to cosmetology school in northern Virginia and most of the students were Black. Then in 2000, I moved to Minnesota and started teaching at a cosmetology school where the population was mostly white—I was hired because the students needed knowledge of how to do Black hair. In our textbooks, there was only one small chapter on Black hair...when we received our cosmetology kits, we got a Black mannequin head and a white mannequin head but when we did color practice, for example, we would do it on the white mannequin hair [and not on the Black mannequin hair]. We would always hear that Black hair was harder to manage and required too much effort.”

The state of New York intends to tackle this problem head-on and has implemented a new law that requires all cosmetology schools to make natural hair part of their curriculum. The goal of the bill is to ensure that all those training to become licensed cosmetologists have the knowledge and expertise to provide hair services “to individuals with all hair types and textures, including, but not limited to, various curl or wave patterns, hair strand thicknesses, and volumes of hair.” Outside of the U.S., in France, policymakers are taking steps to address hair discrimination. At the end of March 2024, lawmakers in France’s lower house of parliament approved a bill prohibiting the discrimination of a person based on the texture, length, color, or style of their hair.

“I introduced my 3-year-old daughter to the Hello Hair books and dolls,” Grant shared. “I can already see how enthusiastic and engaged she is during wash day and styling routines. She approaches these moments without fear—she’s curious and has a desire to learn more. My hope is that as she grows and begins styling her own hair, she will feel empowered, confident, and proud to embrace her natural crown. I see great value in having these dolls in public spaces such as schools and community centers, where they can serve as educational tools for peers to learn about and normalize natural hair. By touching and interacting with these dolls’ hair, we can help promote acceptance and appreciation of our curls.”

With hair discrimination and texturism being persistent but overlooked issues, Grant hopes the dolls transform the way that Black hair is viewed and pave the way for more hair diversity and inclusion. “I envision these dolls being utilized in educational settings, especially as there's increasing discourse about incorporating textured hair care into the curriculum. Each doll represents a different hair texture, as each requires different techniques and care methods. Even if they're not utilized directly, their presence reaffirms the significance and necessity of including textured hair education in cosmetology training.”