While the term “rustic elegance” gets bandied about to the point of cliché, Farmhouse Inn in Sonoma County is its epitome. Rather than a watered-down hybrid of rusticity and elegance, this hotel fully embodies both. (Think heated marble bathroom floors with a view of the chicken coop.)
A spacious barn suite at Farmhouse Inn in Forestville, California in Sonoma County.
And its crown jewel is Farmhouse Restaurant, where the delightfully innovative chef, Craig Wilmer, presides over an exquisite multi-course tasting menu that is simultaneously playful and serious, precise and unpretentious, the likes of which, no doubt, have this team destined for a Michelin star — at least one, but I would vote for two.
Chef Craig Wilmer of Farmhouse Inn.
Farmhouse Inn is a lot like Single Thread in Healdsburg in terms of its European-style combination of fine dining and luxury lodging. But while Single Thread’s inn overlooks downtown Healdsburg, Farmhouse Inn is in the woods, back off the road and ensconced in greenery, with loungey outdoor spaces and flora of all colors and aromas. It’s an ideal place to rest and regroup. If you’re lucky, Charlie the gray tabby will make an appearance while you’re there.
Farmhouse Inn in Sonoma County, California is a peaceful place to rest and regroup.
Charlie, the friendly feline resident of Farmhouse Inn.
There are three room types: individual cottages near the front of the property, barn suites in the back of the property, and small farmhouse rooms above the restaurant. All are decorated in earth tones with lots of stone and wood accented with weathered metal. I am partial to the barn suites because of their placement in the woods. Wake to the sounds of trees rustling and go to sleep to the hum of cicadas.
A deck in the woods and a double-sided fireplace at Farmhouse Inn.
The aforementioned bathrooms in these suites are large and thoughtful, with jetted tubs, walk-in steam showers, and double sinks. The heated floors simply make one feel spoiled in the best possible way, as do the many other gestures that are above and beyond: a fridge stocked with water and sodas, soaps and bath scrubs made in-house, and homemade gluten-free chocolate chip cookies placed by your bedside each night.
A deep-jetted soaking tub and DIY bath bar with homemade soaps and bubble bath at Farmhouse Inn.
The pool is surrounded by a beautiful stone wall lined with blooming plants of many kinds, and in spring, wisteria notes waft over to wherever you’re lounging. Choose from a couch or chaise lounge, in shade or sun. Adjacent to the pool is a casual lunch and dinner restaurant, Farmstand, that serves comfort food like wood-fired pizzas, steak bavette, and yellowtail crudo.
The serene pool at Farmhouse Inn.
The restaurant should be a focal point of your attention as you plan your stay. It’s a good idea to skip lunch so that you’re primed for what is to come. Executive Chef Wilmer, who trained with Erik Anderson, among notable others, is equal parts soulful and methodical in his approach to the complex yet elementally satisfying tasting menu he and his team have developed over the last year. Ashley Luna’s brilliant beverage pairings (wine, sake, zero-proof drinks) take into account the meandering, non-linear nature of the meal. That is to say, they don’t move in intensity from light to heavy; they undulate with the menu. And Executive Pastry Chef Amanda Hoang’s desserts are in the lineage of The French Laundry and Cyrus (she worked at both) but uniquely her own surprising and deceptively simple concepts.
"Rhubarb toast" by Farmouse Inn's inventive pastry chef, Amanda Hoang.
While I took copious notes on every bite, and photos of every angle in low light, here’s the thing: Wilmer and Luna would prefer that you don’t see the menu until the end of the tasting. They’re gracious about it, though, so if you’re an anticipatory type, they’ll gladly provide you with a printed road map. Like knowing the sex of your new baby, it won’t reveal too much. But my advice is to unfasten your seat belt and lean into the ride. I will say that some of the ingredient combinations are unique in all the world. That, in itself, is reason enough to go. And the service is gracious, through and through.
A sneak peek of Wilmer's menu at Farmhouse Inn. Hint: tilefish.
That holds for the entire property, from front desk staff and housekeepers to valet folks and landscapers. The owners, sister and brother Catherine and Joe Bartolomei, whose family has been on this land for several generations, have impeccable taste.
Book a room, and book a dinner reservation at the Farmhouse Inn website. And in celebration of Wilmer and Hoang’s one-year anniversary of leading the culinary team at The Restaurant at Farmhouse Inn, there’s a limited-time, four-course Chef Tasting Experience highlighting the year’s most beloved dishes, including new inspirations from recent travels in South America and Southeast Asia. Priced at $150 per person, with an optional $75 wine pairing, this anniversary menu is a wonderful introduction to this Wine Country destination restuarant. Reserve on TOCK here.
