Beautiful old harbor with wooden fishing boat in Cefalu, Sicily, Italy.
South Beach, and Miami in general, has long been home to many good Italian restaurants. Most of which I have found unimpressive. However, with the mineral content of the water and the selection of base ingredients being so different on this side of the Ocean it is hard to compete with what they are cooking up in the motherland these days.
However, the Pelican Café—at the Pelican Hotel—does a very good job. The beachside restaurant is helmed by chef Gioacchino Sofia, whose Sicilian family has been in the restaurant business for more than 60 years. With his seafood-forward menu, chef is turning out some great crudo and seafood-rich pasta. I particularly loved the squid-ink pasta tossed with clams.
I had a chance to sit down with him recently. All responses have been edited and condensed for clarity.
Chef Gio at the Pelican Hotel.
Liza B. Zimmerman (L.B.Z.): When did you start working with your family in the restaurant?
Chef Giocchino Sofia (G.S.): I began working at my family’s restaurant during my summer breaks at the age of 15, initially as a server. By the time I turned 18, I was interested in working behind the scenes in the kitchen. I was appointed chef there in 2008.
For our family, the restaurant business is a cherished family tradition that I felt compelled to continue. Witnessing the passion and dedication my family poured into their culinary craft inspired me to follow suit. I wanted to carry on this legacy, which has now been passed down to my son who is also a chef.
L.B.Z.: Did you study at any culinary school or are you self-taught?
G.S.: I attended a culinary hospitality school in Messina, Italy for three years to refine my skills. Additionally, I've learned extensively from the invaluable experiences gained working alongside my family.
L.B.Z.: Where all have you worked in your career?
The bar at the Pelican Hotel.
G.S.: Throughout my career, I've had the privilege of working in various establishments and since 2015, I have been contributing to the culinary landscape in Miami.
L.B.Z.: Why did you want to come to Miami and cook?
G.S.: My decision to come to Miami was driven by a desire to broaden my culinary horizons. The diverse cultural influences, and the vibrant food scene in Miami, piqued my interest as well as the lure of the beaches.
L.B.Z.: What is truly unique about Sicilian food?
Palermo, Italy: Old city street with vegetable sellers and stalls with tomatoes, eggplant, local ... [+]
G.S.: Sicilian cuisine stands out for its rich blend of cultural influences, including North African, Norman, and Spanish flavors. Additionally, the island's unique microclimate yields an abundance of distinctive ingredients that contribute to its unique culinary heritage.
L.B.Z.: How do you mix the traditions of Sicilian cooking with the food trends and locally sourced items in S. Florida?
G.S.: Drawing inspiration from both Sicilian traditions and locally sourced ingredients in South Florida, I blend the two to create signature dishes. For instance, I incorporate local favorites like red snapper into classic Sicilian recipes, infusing them with a fresh twist.
L.B.Z.: What are some of your favorite Sicilian dishes and how have you reinterpreted them at the Pelican?
Squid ink pasta with clams.
G.S.: Some of my favorite Sicilian dishes include a Sicilian octopus appetizer, tuna tartare, homemade tagliolini with clams and bottarga, and lobster ravioli with shrimp and zucchini. At the Pelican, I reinterpret these classics by infusing them with locally sourced ingredients such as cilantro, mango and avocado, creating a fusion of flavors.
Lobster ravioli at the Pelican.
L.B.Z.: Why do you think S. Floridians and visitors love Italian and Sicilian food so much?
G.S.: Italian and Sicilian cuisine resonates with South Floridians and visitors alike due to its rich and diverse flavors. From sweet to spicy, acidic to aromatic, Sicilian food offers a comprehensive culinary experience that satisfies a wide range of palates.
L.B.Z.: Can you think of any trick to offer customers when they try to cook authentic Italian food at home?
G.S.: When preparing authentic Italian dishes at home, it's essential to maintain a delicate balance of ingredients, opting for top-quality products. Avoid overcooking or over-seasoning, in order to allow the natural flavors to shine through.
