Gaia Gaja, at the Gaja winery in Barbaresco
Over the past 10-12 years, the overall quality in Barbaresco and Barolo, two iconic wines produced in the Langhe district of the Piedmont region, has been remarkable. This is not to say that the current examples of these wines are better than the finest versions from the 1950s and ‘60s, but clearly the quality of these wines is more consistent today thanks to several factors, including better ripening - a clear result of warmer temperatures - that has resulted in dozens of elegantly styled, highly complex, beautifully structured wines that can drink well for 15-30 years from the finest vintages.
To truly understand greatness with these two wines, one must look to a few remarkable producers that have consistently aimed higher than almost anyone else. While personal opinions come into play here, there is no doubt that at the top of almost everyone’s list, the Gaja winery in the town of Barbaresco is recognized as one of the giants.
Established in 1859, the winery today is managed by Angelo Gaja, arguably the best-known wine producer in Italy. He began his work at the estate in 1961 at the age of 21; laboring in the vineyards at the request of his father Giovanni before succeeding him several years later.
Gaja has stated in numerous interviews over the years how his father told him to always aim high, and never settle for anything less than the best. He has followed the suggestion brilliantly for more than 50 years; his wines, especially his single vineyard examples of Barbaresco are legendary for their power, grace and longevity. Talk to enough local producers and you’ll learn of the reverence they have for him, considering Gaja as the man who put Barbaresco on the map as far as a world-class wine.
Today, Gaja works with his three children, Gaia, his eldest daughter, Rossana and his only son Giovanni, at the winery; at 84, he still is the boss, but listens to the ideas of his offspring regarding winemaking decisions. He travels less today, leaving that to Gaia and to a lesser extent Giovanni, who communicate the knowledge, passion and foresight their father has combined to continue remaining atop the domain of Barbaresco and Barolo.
I recently sat down with Gaia Gaja at the winery to taste a few new releases, and to my great surprise, she arranged a tasting for me that was arguably the most rewarding in my life. We tasted the classic Barbaresco, along with the single vineyards: Costa Russi, Sorì San Tildìn and Sorì San Lorenzo; these from the 2021 vintage, along with two cru Barolo from the 2020 vintage: Conteisa and Sperrs. Gaia mentioned to me that in 2024 all of these wines are being released, something that does not happen every year; for example, she noted that in 2018, there was no Costa Russi Barbaresco, as the grapes that normally were used for that wine were instead used in the blend for that year’s classic Barbaresco.
How does Gaia describe the 2021 and 2020 vintages? She recalls that 2021 was “a late harvest, finally.” The winter was colder than normal, resulting in a later than normal budbreak. Summer was beautiful, as she notes that temperatures never went above 26 or 27 degrees Celsius (77 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit), with July being the hottest month, “which was okay,” in her words.
She remarks that she finds “opulence” in the 2021 wines; “I like this richness.” She adds, “For me, 2021 is a great vintage.”
As for 2020, Gaia remembers it was year with a great deal of rain as well as pronounced heat. “So this was the trend, temperatures were going up, then it was too hot, then thunderstorms, then more heat, then thunderstorms.
“So this mix of heat and water at the end was beneficial for the full ripeness of the grapes. Grapes that ripened fully, so for me the characteristic of the 2020s is the sweetness; as soon as you drink it, there is a sweetness and the tannins are very sweet. The finesse of Nebbiolo comes out. It’s not full bodied like 2019, but there is no austerity either and the berries were 10% bigger than usual.”
Gaia Gaja is always mindful of her father’s advice regarding the family’s wines. “My father tells me all the time ‘the wines of this century are different than the wines of the past century.’ He never really explained fully, but this (the 2021 Barbaresco) is an example, because for me, from one side (today’s wines represent) the classic Nebbiolo; from the other side, they’re different than the classic.
“In which sense? In the sense for me there is a richness of fruit, a suppleness of tannins that is something unique with respect to the past.
“My father says we did beautiful wines in the ’60s, the ‘70s and the ‘80s with grapes that were never fully, fully ripe. Now they ripen in a different way, and you have more fruit and less acidity and softer tannins.
“But from one side, I think that Nebbiolo is a variety that should not immediately smile to you. I like that Nebbiolo is not looking at you and is a little bit punchy with the tannins. I miss that, because I don’t feel it so much anymore. But at the same time, I’m not complaining about this, either.”
Regarding the tasting organized by Gaia, I’m not sure my words can truly express how stunning these wines truly are. But I’ll try. Once again, thank you, Gaia Gaja, and of course, Angelo Gaja for always taking the high road and constantly seeking to guide Barbaresco and Barolo to even higher levels.
Bottles of Gaja Barbareaso from the 2021 vintage: Costa Russi, Sorì Tildìn and Sorì San Lorenzo.
Barbaresco 2021 - Medium full with excellent concentration. Rich, beautifully balanced tannins, well integrated oak, very good acidity and signficant persistence. Excellent complexity and typicity, the lengthy finish displays distinctive brown spice notes. Lovely wine, so typical of this classic 2021 vintage, as well as the Gaja style. Peak in 15-20 years. (93)
Barbaresco Costa Russi 2021 - Lovely aromas of red roses, red plum, violet and a hint of café. Medium-full with excellent concentration. Rich mid-palate; beautiful harmony along with excellent persistence. Medium-full tannins, well-integrated wood notes; lengthy finish, very good acidity. Outstanding varietal purity; peak in 15-20 years. (94)
Barbaresco Sorì Tildìn 2021 - Aromas of lavender, green herbs, mocha, thyme and red roses. Medium-full with excellent concentration; rich mid-palate; very good acidity, outstanding persistence; beautifully integrated oak notes, and outstanding complexity. There is very ripe fruit, but as with the rest of this wine, everything is in superb harmony. A classic! Peak in 20-23 years. (97)
Barbaresco Sorì San Lorenzo 2021 - Striking aromas of red roses, forest floor and medicinal herbs. Full-bodied, with resonant tannins, very good acidity, outstanding persistence, well-integrated wood notes, and light herbal notes in the finish. Beautiful sense of place along with outstanding complexity. Another brilliant Sorì San Lorenzo from Gaja, this is a great wine that will reveal more over the next two decades. The essence of Nebbiolo, the soul of Barbaresco. Peak in 20-30 years. (98)
Barolo Conteisa 2020 - Aromas of oregano, tobacco, currant and pepper. Medium-full with very good to excellent concentration. Rich mid-palate, very good acidity, excellent complexity. Medium-full tannins, lengthy finish, and very good acidity. Lovely sense of place; impressive typicity; excellent Nebbiolo character. Give another year or two to round out; peak in 15-20 years. (94)
Barolo Sperrs 2020 - Aromas of balsamic, tobacco seed, dried roses and a hint of sundried tomato. Medium-full with excellent concentration. Rich mid-palate, very good acidity, excellent persistence. Medium-full, gentle tannins, well integrated wood notes. Lovely wine offering excellent typicity, impressive complexity and superb harmony. Peak in 15-20 years. (94)
