Early in sommelier Gabriele Del Carlo’s career, he experienced a “truly magical moment” with port that set him on a path to better appreciate, and represent, the fortified wine on international menus.
“As a young sommelier in Florence, Italy, I had the opportunity to taste Taylor’s Vintage 1955 – it was the oldest wine I had sipped,” shared Del Carlo, who is now the head sommelier at Le Royal Monceau Raffles Paris.
Gabriele Del Carlo
Years later in Paris, Del Carlo hand selected and shared a bottle of Quinta do Noval Nacional 1963 with prominent dinner guests, opening the delicate bottle with port tongs. “These ports evoke memorable moments from my career,” he emphasized, denoting the inspiration to introduce an extensive and exclusive port collection at Le Royal Monceau’s Le Bar Long. Both Taylor’s and Quinta do Noval appear on Le Bar Long’s new port menu, in addition to a third major port house, Fonseca, with styles ranging from oxidative Tawny to fruity vintages.
Located in the 8th arrondissement, Del Carlo described Le Royal Monceau as one of the few establishments in Paris to prioritize such a bespoke selection of port wines. He believes Le Bar Long is an unparalleled setting to sip port with its warm, rich red and brown hues and leather accents so he hopes it encourages both wine enthusiasts and the port curious, alike, to imbibe and contribute to the resurgence of the after-dinner cocktail.
Below, Del Carlo shares more about his inspiration for the menu as well as some of the trends he’s witnessed among new and returning guests.
Le Bar Long
Jillian Dara: How did the idea of creating a specific port list come about?
Gabriele Del Carlo: I've always loved port wine; its complexity, smoothness, and richness make for a truly unique and delightful wine tasting. When I arrived at Le Royal Monceau – Raffles Paris, the warm and elegant atmosphere of Le Bar Long inspired me to create this unique port menu. Le Bar Long reminded me of my own memorable personal experiences with Port wines.
JD: Why did you decide now was the time to launch it?
GDC: Our team has been working on the menu since I arrived at Le Royal Monceau Raffles Paris, just one year ago [2023]. As I became acquainted with the historic palace hotel and its distinctive culinary and beverage offerings, the beautiful, bespoke selection of ports was slowly in development. As soon as I had the opportunity to dive more deeply into the wines as a concept, and how exactly it would come to life at Le Bar Long, our team carefully developed and introduced the menu.
JD: How did you work to narrow down the labels on offer?
GDC: This exclusive menu is a sentimental collection created based on cherished memories from my journey through the wine world. I selected houses based on bottles I treasured as a young sommelier—such as the Taylor’s Vintage 1955 with its exceptional 50-year-old Tawny and Quinta do Noval, recognized worldwide for the quality of its wines, notably for one of the greatest wines in the world, the Nacional, a vintage Porto obtained from vines that survived the phylloxera.
JD: What about this new offering is most unique to the property?
GDC: Our special selection features a wide range of ports, from young, fruity wines to older, more complex, and spicy, to some of the most exclusive ports available. Within this menu, wine enthusiasts are offered unique tasting opportunities including a renowned Quinta do Noval Nacional by the glass, across three different vintages, even in half portions, to truly savor a unique moment and discover a piece of wine history.
JD: Why do you think it's so important to offer this type of amenity for your guests?
GDC: The art of wine is my greatest passion, and a singular sip of port evokes treasured memories from my career as a sommelier. It is my hope that this exceptional experience will set the stage for guests to create their own lasting memories. Guests staying here are well-traveled with a discerning taste and are looking to discover unique and tailor-made luxury offerings in a unique setting ranging from wine tastings to access to fashion ateliers, private museum tours, and other behind the scenes moments.
JD: Aside from the new port offering, how have the bar offerings at the hotel changed since opening?
GDC: To meet and exceed our guests’ expectations, we have completely revamped our wine and spirits offerings over the past year. We have made significant commitments and investments into expanding our wine selection—increasing the list from 380 labels to 1,200. We are now seeing more and more wine enthusiasts returning to our hotel to experience our expansive selections.
JD: Do you see a shift in guest's demand when it comes to wine, spirits and bar offerings?
GDC: We are seeing guests becoming more interested in lesser-known varieties and exploring wines from different regions. The after-dinner drink trend is also gaining momentum as guests want to continue the social aspect of the evening and enjoy one more memorable drink with friends and family.
