Maguy and Gilbert Le Coze took a risk in 1986 to open a very French seafood restaurant in ... [+]
In 1986 Parisians Maguy and Gilbert Le Coze took a leap of faith that New York would appreciate a luxurious restaurant named Le Bernardin devoted solely to seafood made with ingredients from American waters. The original Le Bernardin was in Paris, which meant a trans-Atlantic commute for the brother and sister, who had little familiarity with what might be available in the New York Fulton Fish Market. Gilbert, as chef, spent early mornings there goading the notoriously tough vendors to give him their best, from lobsters and bay scallops to tuna and sea urchins.
Within months Le Bernardin earned four stars from the New York Times and, eventually, three stars from the Michelin Guide (each their highest rating). Awards never subsided, including a position of Number One in the world by the global food guide La Liste.
Chef Eric Ripert took over the kitchen and partnered with Maguy Le Coze after her brother died in ... [+]
Yet tragedy struck the restaurant in 1994 with the unexpected passing of Gilbert. Marshaling her resources and fortitude, Maguy began working closely with Chef Eric Ripert, a disciple and close friend of Gilbert, who took over the kitchen and to continue his legacy.
Neither economic downturns, 9/11 or Covid have stopped the evolution of Le Bernardin, and for 38 years there has rarely been any empty seat at lunch and dinner. I interviewed Maguy and Ripert as to how they’ve managed to survive those storms as well as culinary trends that value novelty over enduring excellence.
Maguy, after your success in Paris with LB did you and Gilbert plan to open in NYC and other cities?
After Paris, I really wanted to open in New York City. I loved the energy of the city. Gilbert was more reluctant because at the time we couldn’t find the same quality of ingredients that we had in Paris.
Le Bernardin showcases highly refined seafood from American waters.
Did you change the Paris menu in NYC based on what seafood was available in the market?
Yes, we did. Gilbert was going to the fish market every night and was very inspired by the local New England seafood coming from day boats. To which, the menu was highlighting regional North American species.
Were you surprised Americans wanted to eat at an all-seafood French restaurant?
When we came to New York, we were excited and didn’t expect to fail. However, we knew it would be challenging. Le Bernardin was the first luxurious seafood restaurant in the country, but we never doubted that it would please the clientele.
What was the price of a meal when you opened? What is it now?
When we opened, dinner was $65 for three courses. Today, our prix fixe dinner menu is $210 for four courses with elaborate canapés and petit fours.
After Gilbert’s death, did you ever think of closing NYC and returning to Paris?
When my brother passed, I was devastated, but I never thought about closing and going back to France. With the help of the team and Eric in the kitchen, we worked extremely hard and kept Le Bernardin successful.
Eric Ripert worked for years with his good friend Gilbert Le Coze before his sudden death in 1994.
Eric, were you frightened by the idea of taking over from Gilbert?
The loss of Gilbert was very emotional because we had become very close friends, almost like family. However, I was not scared of continuing the legacy of Gilbert. I was focused, maybe a little naïve, but fearless and Maguy was a great support.
What are the essential qualities of Gilbert’s cooking that you would never change?
Gilbert was an autodidact. His cuisine was very personal and influenced by his roots in Brittany. His obsession for freshness, precision, and ultimately the philosophy that “the fish is the star of the plate” will never change at Le Bernardin.
Foamy sauces were among many innovations for seafood at Le Bernardin .
Has there, however, been an evolution in your cuisine?
When I started with Gilbert, he gave me a lot of freedom and I was very inspired by my roots in the South of France and Spanish cuisine. Then, with both living in the vibrant city of New York and having opportunities to travel around the world came inspiration. And we created a natural fusion in between cultures that never stops.
Maguy/Eric: What were your fears when Covid shut the restaurant?
We were heartbroken because we had to let go of most of the employees. And at the time, nobody knew when we would reopen. We were very concerned by the well-being of the employees and patrons.
What happened to your staff during Covid?
We laid off most of the team and kept the office open. We were able to bring back a few kitchen employees to cook meals for World Central Kitchen with the support of City Harvest.
It seems LB is more popular than ever. Who are your clientele now? Percentage of New Yorkers, French, Asians, etc.?
We never compromised on the experience we delivered from the service to the food. We keep our prices reasonable and did not develop other restaurants. Our clientele seem to appreciate that. I believe the vast majority are New Yorkers from many different ethnicities. And our Asian clientele from South Korea and Japan has grown tremendously. With our standings on La Liste and Michelin, we have also seen an increase in clientele from France.
Maguy Le Coze brought high Parisian style to Le Bernardin and Eric did the same in its kitchen.
Maguy, how would you describe the style you bought to LB and NY? How often are you able to be in NY?
I spend a lot of time in New York, and I always keep an eye on Le Bernardin with Eric. I believe I was able to bring a Parisian sense of style and flair to the restaurant. This style was an elegance and sophistication that you find in many restaurants today but was not so common in the US at the time.
Many in the media say that fine dining at LB’s level is dying. Is that true?
This is not the truth at all. If you try to make a reservation in fine dining establishments, very often one cannot get a table. We think that fine dining and luxurious restaurants are very vibrant and inspirational.
You once had restaurants in Atlanta and Miami but have never expanded since. Why not?
Eric and I thought that it was more pleasurable and efficient to focus on one property, so we decided to close these locations to regroup in New York. We made one exception with our restaurant Blue by Eric Ripert at the Ritz Carlton in Grand Cayman.
Do you feel that hiring first-rate kitchen staff is harder than ever?
At Le Bernardin, we do not have problems to find employees in all departments, especially the kitchen. A lot of young cooks are excited to learn in fine dining restaurants. It is the best place for them to work with luxurious ingredients, have great equipment, and large teams to support them.
